When an LG washer flashes a code like UE, OE, IE, LE, dE or FF, it is not a random glitch. The display is telling you which system stopped the cycle: balance, drain, fill, motor, door or freeze. Most of these clear with a safe owner check. A smaller set points to a part that needs a technician.
This guide covers the codes Toronto homeowners see most often on LG front-load and top-load washers, what each one means in plain English, the fixes you can try yourself, and the signs it is time to book washing machine repair in Toronto. For brand-wide LG service notes, see our LG appliance repair page. If your machine is a Samsung or Whirlpool instead, we also have guides for Samsung washer error codes and Whirlpool washer error codes.
LG’s own support library lists the same core codes for front-load and top-load models, with small wording differences. Always check your model’s owner’s manual for the exact spelling on your display (some boards show uE vs UE, or dE1 instead of plain dE).
How to Read LG Washer Codes (Front Load vs Top Load)
Before you dig into parts:
- Write down the exact code as it appears, including any number after the letters (dE1, dE2, tE, PE).
- Power-cycle once. Press Power to turn the washer off, wait 30 seconds, then turn it back on. A one-off glitch after a brownout sometimes clears this way.
- Note when it appears. Mid-fill, mid-drain, or only at spin tells you a lot. UE almost always shows at spin. OE shows when the tub should empty. IE shows when the tub should fill.
- Safety first. Unplug the washer (or switch off its breaker) before you pull the machine out, open a rear panel, or dig into the drain filter. Never put your hand in a tub that still has standing water and a live cycle running.
Front-load LGs usually have a coin-trap / drain filter behind a small toe-kick door at the bottom front. Top-load LGs often drain through a hose only, with no owner-serviceable coin trap. That difference matters for OE troubleshooting.
UE / uE: Unbalanced Load
Meaning: the drum cannot spin evenly. LG will try to rebalance on its own a few times (you may see a lowercase uE while it adds water and redistributes). If it cannot, the cycle pauses with UE (uppercase) and waits for you.
Owner fixes:
- Open the door or lid, spread the laundry evenly around the drum, and restart. A single heavy item (bath mat, comforter, jeans ball) is the usual culprit.
- If the load is tiny (one towel), add a few similar items so the weight can distribute.
- If the load is a mix of heavy and light pieces, regroup so heavy items are not stacked on one side.
- Confirm the washer sits level. A machine that rocks on the floor will throw UE even with a normal load. Adjust the feet until it does not rock, then tighten the lock nuts.
Call a tech when: UE returns on every load after you redistribute and level the machine. That can mean a worn suspension rod, damper, or (on some front loads) a shock absorber, or a drum bearing starting to fail. Those are not DIY jobs for most homeowners.
OE: Drain Error
Meaning: water is not leaving the tub in the time the control board expects.
Owner fixes (front load):
- Pause or cancel the cycle. Bail out as much water as you safely can into a shallow pan if the tub is full.
- Open the lower front access door, place a towel and shallow pan under the filter, slowly open the small drain hose or filter, and empty the water.
- Unscrew the drain filter, pull out lint, coins, hairpins and socks, rinse the filter, and seat it firmly again.
- Check the drain hose behind the washer for kinks, a crushed section under the cabinet, or a hose pushed too far down into a standpipe (which can siphon and confuse the board).
Owner fixes (top load): straighten the drain hose, confirm it is not clogged or frozen, and make sure the standpipe or sink drain is clear. LG notes that a pinched, clogged or frozen hose is a common OE cause on top-load models.
For a deeper walk-through of clogs and pump checks that apply across brands, see our guide on a washer not draining.
Call a tech when: the filter and hose are clear but OE returns, the pump is silent or only hums, or water leaks when you open the filter. A failed drain pump, clogged internal hose, or bad water-level sensor needs tools and parts.
IE: Water Inlet Error
Meaning: the washer is not filling fast enough, or at all. LG expects adequate household water pressure (their support material cites a broad working range; if other taps in the home are weak, call a plumber first).
Owner fixes:
- Confirm both hot and cold taps (or the single cold tap on cold-only installs) are fully open.
- Straighten any kinked inlet hose.
- Turn the taps off, disconnect the hose(s) at the washer, and clean the small inlet screen filters inside the valve ports. Sediment from Toronto-area plumbing is a frequent IE trigger after main breaks or building work.
- Reconnect, open the taps, and check for leaks before restarting.
Call a tech when: screens are clean, pressure at other taps is fine, and IE still appears. The inlet valve coils or the water-level (pressure) system may have failed.
LE: Motor Locked / Overloaded
Meaning: the drive motor is drawing too much current or cannot turn. LG’s guidance for many models is to let the machine rest about 30 minutes so the motor and inverter can cool, then restart the cycle.
Owner fixes:
- Cancel the cycle, open the door, and make sure nothing is jammed between the door gasket and the drum (front load) or under the agitator area (top load).
- Remove an overloaded tub. Packing a front-load drum past the manufacturer’s fill line is a classic LE cause.
- Wait a full half hour, then run a short spin-only or rinse-and-spin with a small, balanced load.
Call a tech when: LE returns after a cool-down on a normal load, you hear grinding or scraping, or the drum is hard to turn by hand with power off. That can be a failing stator, rotor magnets, hall sensor, or seized bearing. Direct-drive LG motors are serviceable, but they are not a casual DIY swap.
dE / dE1 / dE2 / dE3: Door or Lid Errors
Meaning: the door or lid is not closed and locked the way the control expects. On front loads, dE usually means the door switch / lock did not confirm a close. On LG SideKick pedestal washers, dE1 is drawer not closed, dE2 is drawer closed but not locked, and dE3 is the inner lid not latched.
Owner fixes:
- Open and firmly close the door or lid. Press Start again.
- Check for clothing caught in the door gasket or under the lid strike.
- Wipe residue off the door latch area. Sticky detergent build-up can keep the lock from seating.
- On a SideKick, close the drawer firmly, confirm the inner lid is down, and restart.
Call a tech when: the door will not lock (no click), the lock clicks but dE returns, or the latch is visibly broken. Door lock assemblies and lid switches are common wear parts and are quick for a technician once the right part number is confirmed.
FF, PE, tE, PF and Other Codes
FF (frozen): LG reports this when inlet or drain paths are frozen. In a cold Toronto garage or porch laundry, that is seasonal. Pour warm (not boiling) water into the drum to thaw a frozen drain path, and wrap a warm wet towel around a frozen inlet hose. Do not hammer ice out of plastic parts. Once thawed, check the drain filter and run a short cycle.
PF (power failure): the supply was interrupted mid-cycle. Restart the cycle after power is stable. If PF or odd behaviour repeats, check the outlet and breaker before blaming the board.
PE / tE (sensor / temperature-related on many models): these often point to a water-level (pressure) sensor issue or a temperature sensor fault, depending on the exact model family. Owner checks are limited: inspect the small pressure hose to the tub for kinks or water inside the tube (with power off), then call for diagnosis if the code returns. Do not keep resetting and running full cycles if the tub overfills.
CL: not an error. Child Lock / Control Lock is on. Hold the two buttons marked for Control Lock (or follow your manual) for about three seconds to unlock.
tCL: Tub Clean reminder on some models, not a fault. Run the Tub Clean cycle with the cleaner LG recommends for your machine.
When an LG Code Means a Repair
Book a technician if any of these are true:
- The same code returns after you finished the owner steps above.
- You smell burning, see scorched wiring, or the breaker trips when the washer starts.
- Water is leaking onto the floor from the pump, hoses or door boot.
- The drum is noisy, wobbles heavily, or is hard to turn by hand with power off.
- The tub overfills, will not fill at all after inlet screens are cleaned, or the door will not unlock.
Unplug the washer and shut the water taps if you have an active leak or a burning smell. Standing water left in a sealed front-load tub also gets stale fast, so drain it through the filter hose when you can do so safely.
I-Fix Appliance Repair services LG washers across Toronto, North York, Scarborough and Etobicoke. If you are in North York and the code will not clear, start with our appliance repair in North York page or book through the contact form. Same-day windows are often available when parts are on the van.
Bring the exact code, your model number (on the sticker inside the door or on the back), and a short note about when the code appears. That saves a second visit for the wrong part.